sega
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Posts: 3
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Post by sega on Mar 15, 2013 16:49:06 GMT
Hi there,
Ive communicated with a few of you on the Facebook page, but now I'm moving onto this forum.
Ive picked up a little 11/2 and on close inspection there is allot of rot in the back end of the caravan which needs attention.
Essentially i am wanting to know what steps i should take.
Ive read on here that its best to work outside in. So should i start by removing the rot first or resealing?. Can i use plywood to replace the damage and what insulation is best? Should i use polystyrene or something more modern?
This is all totally new to me. Luckily i have some handy man hands to assist me but i want to ensure i am doing it right.
Any hint, tips and useful steps would be appreciated big time!
Many Thanks
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Post by henry on Mar 15, 2013 22:45:59 GMT
Hi
you need to tackle it outside in but if its showing signs of damp inside the end may be totally rotten so before you take any pannels off trace the side curve profile first on to card because you need to replicate these curves in the new timber you cut out also before you start measure the window frames and level the caravan using the jack legs as when your making the new parts of the frame you can check the position on both sides with a spirit level
I use ply wood for the corner curves as its stronger than natural timber but use stock timber for eveything else
inside damage is pretty simple to repair make a card template of the pannel tha needs replacing and use this to cut out of 3mm ply wood
polystyrene is what is in the walls of your safari and polystyrene is what is still used to insulate caravan walls to this day only difference is modern caravan walls are made on a big table in one go and stuck together with glue forever so there really difficult to take apart and fix and old caravan walls were made properly without glue so they can be repaired that's why you have done the right thing buying an old safari ;D
Any more questions please ask
Gary
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Post by henry on Mar 15, 2013 22:51:38 GMT
I wasn't very clear you repair the rot and then use non drying bedding sealant to reseal you cannot reseal it without repairing the timber its what the seals clamp against if its rotten the seals will be lose
do not use any other kind of sealant this is important
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Post by Brian M on Mar 16, 2013 7:17:49 GMT
Sega
Gary is a professional caravan restorer and so I have little to add to his reply.
One additional tip when working at the back, is to leave the kitchen units in place as this helps to get the new wooden frame in the right place. Take the fridge and oven out, and perhaps also remove the sink top to make access easier but the units should remain. Also if it isn't damp leave the wall between the kitchen and toilet in place.
The flat shapes are easily cut, but the curved bars can be more difficult as they were originally steamed to shape, but they can be cut from flat timber.
If it is required, aluminium external panels, internal wall boards (or ply plus wall paper), sheets of polystyrene are all available.
My standard request is that you post lots of photographs,on here to help and encourage others to restore their Safaris, and I have loads of other spares for sale.
Don't be afraid to ask questions, someone is sure to reply.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2013 12:55:19 GMT
Hello, the advise above is very good,,,, I myself did not want to take pannels off - this SCARED me of the thought of the pannels bending, not being able to put them back on and also where on earth do you store the panels if infact you do not have anywhere undercover to put your caravan. I have recently rebuilt the front end of my Safari 17-2 and will be rebuiling the rear end of my Safari 17-4 shortly. So the 17-2 as soon as I got it back I resealed the complete roof. Took out the units from the inside in this case the seat units, upper roof cupboards. Took out all the damp wood, wall boards, ceiling. I then left it a couple of days to see whether or not rain was still getting it... It was in a few places, resealed again - job done! I then bought 2x1 and 1x1 wood and started rebuiling the frame, corners built first and then the wood coming off them. I used polystyrene which was used originally. Yesterday I put the 3mm plywood sheets back onto the walls and started to wallpaper. I sealed the outside with silicone available at most caravan stores and diy stores. And on the inside I used gripbond, the same as sikaflex sets solid in 15 minutes. I hope this helps
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2013 12:56:00 GMT
Dont forget you will have to paint the outside even if the old paint is in good condition as you will have little pin holes in the alluminium that has happened over the last 30+ years.
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sega
New Member
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Post by sega on Mar 20, 2013 14:35:14 GMT
Hi all, Many thanks for everything written so far. Its so helpful! I have managed to find some undercover storage with power and the guy is letting me do repair work on it there which is very handy. I am planning on making a start this weekend. I think its the starting that the hardest bit of all! A few questions and apologies if they are obvious questions; Gary - non bedding sealant - Is this the same as sikaflex? or a different type of sealant? Can i use the same one on the inside and the outside? do you have any suggestions of products? Also, i have been reading a few blogs in this forum and i see that there is a cheaper sealant then sikaflex which also works as well, i stupidly didnt make a note of the name (will have to trail through and find it, but if anyone knows that would be great!) Sorry Gary, what do you mean by side curve profile? prob a silly question. Windows - the whole back area by the kitchen looks rotten, if i am working from the outside in, do i need to remove windows too? Also the windows both have cracks. Is it easier to look for spares or get glass cut to fit? Brian - Thanks for the tip on keeping the units in place i the kitchen. Unfortunatly the area between the kitchen and the toilet is rotten so will need to be replaced. The curved timber bar - how can i go about getting this replaced and bent to shape? I will prob have loads more questions but thats all i can think about for now. xx On a seperate note, i have a couple of windows that are cracked. Is it worth looking out for spare Safari ones or can i get the glass cut independently - what would you advice?
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Post by henry on Mar 20, 2013 15:15:22 GMT
Sikaflex 512 is non drying bedding sealant I use seamseal cv for a cheaper alternative you don't need sealant for the inside if your resealing everything doors windows seals etc you need to get 7-10 tubes of bedding sealant
Side profile is where the side of the caravan meets the end you need to have that exact curve recorded as the timber inside may be totally gone and the new needs to be exactly the same as the old or the skin wont fit and wont go together right
You need to remove the window to take the aluminium skin off also the aluminium frame around the window opening
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sega
New Member
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Post by sega on Mar 20, 2013 18:52:35 GMT
Great thanks for this advice.
With the winodws, if they are cracked, should i get replacement ones through safari or can i just get glass cut?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 20, 2013 19:57:16 GMT
I and Brian both have safari windows in stock, most probably cheaper then getting the glass cut and then fitting to the frame but obviously you can look into this
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 20, 2013 20:00:04 GMT
I didnt remove the outer alluminium or take windows out as I worked in to out worked much better but see how you get on
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Post by henry on Mar 20, 2013 20:56:36 GMT
Chris how can you reseal the window without taking it out??
I keep banging on about resealing there is a proper way to do it that works and all the other ways that dont
damp is the biggest killer of all caravans
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2013 19:25:17 GMT
Hello Henry, I didn't take it out but I did undo the screws dig out the crap and put sealant back in.
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